Chapter 4: Authentic Huaiyang Cuisine of the First Rank—Shanyang Awaits the Rise of Two Stars

When Wang Mang usurped the throne, he renamed Sheyang as Linhuai Pavilion and Huaiyin as Jiaxin. In the fifteenth year of the Eastern Han dynasty's Jianwu era (39 AD), the imperial prince Liu Jing was enfeoffed as the Marquis of Shanyang, with his seat at the northern shore of Baima Lake; from then, the name Shanyang first appeared in the annals.

As for Lord Guo, to whom the poet dedicated his verses, the county magistrate knew a little about him. Lord Guo, whose given name was Xingyu, passed the imperial examination during the Yuanhe reign, and was appointed Prefect of Chuzhou at the beginning of the Taihe era. The poet’s opening line, “Of all the prefectures southeast of the Huai, this is the foremost, encircled by mountains, its ramparts bathed in moonlight,” is a celebrated verse praising Huai’an, passed down through the ages. The poem as a whole extols the breathtaking scenery of Huai’an and offers heartfelt wishes to a friend about to take up his post.

Turning the page, the magistrate read another poem, penned by the Ming dynasty poet Yao Guangxiao after his visit to Wanliu Pond (now Spoon Lake) in Huai’an, in praise of the city.

Reflections on Ancient Huai’an
By Ming dynasty poet Yao Guangxiao

Embracing Wu and bordering Chu, this place draws many travelers,
Magnificent, the premier prefecture of the southeast.
Hills and rivers form a screen, shifting with the land,
The Huai River gleams like silk, merging with the sky.
On the city walls, drums startle crows and magpies,
At the dam’s mouth, sails unfurl and white gulls rise.
Heroes of old are nowhere to be seen beneath our feet,
Only drifting mist and slanting sun evoke melancholy.

As the magistrate admired these verses, a clamor arose nearby. The secretary hurried to look and quickly reported, “Sir, it is time for your meal!”

The magistrate laughed, “Let us see if this imperial chef’s reputation is deserved.”

“Please, this way to the Hall of Serenity,” said Master Song, his face wreathed in smiles, eyes narrowing to slits.

The magistrate strode forward, and indeed, the Hall of Serenity lifted his spirits. Standing atop the third floor, the picturesque scenery of the ancient town lay before him. To the east stretched a pleasing expanse of ink-green lotus ponds; a gentle breeze carried a faint fragrance that refreshed his soul. In such a setting, the magistrate truly felt a touch of intoxication.

Gazing southwest, he could clearly see the towering Wensi Temple, its spire piercing the clouds. The long, resonant sound of temple bells gradually calmed his heart.

On the table, four cold meat dishes and four cold vegetable dishes were exquisitely arranged: preserved eggs, shredded kelp, lotus root sandwiches, and, of course, vinegar-marinated peanuts… “The Family Harmony Platter!” called the server in a loud voice.

In Shanyang County, meals are served with particular ceremony: first the cold dishes, then the harmony platter, followed by braised dishes, then stir-fries, and finally, after the fish soup, the staple foods.

“This is the authentic Yangzhou Lion’s Head, the crown jewel of Huaiyang cuisine. Please, sir, taste it for yourself.” Master Song stood by, watching the magistrate’s eager expression as he finally picked up half of a Lion’s Head meatball.

The Lion’s Head, originally called Sunflower Chopped Pork or Sunflower Meatball, is a classic dish of the Huaiyang culinary tradition. Its origins date back to the Sui dynasty; legend has it that during Emperor Yang’s southern tour, the chef created four dishes themed after the four famous sights of Yangzhou—Wansong Hill, Qianqian Mound, Ivory Grove, and Sunflower Ridge—resulting in Squirrel Mandarin Fish, Coin Shrimp Cakes, Ivory Chicken Strips, and Sunflower Chopped Pork. In the Tang dynasty, the name was changed to Lion’s Head.

The dish is celebrated for its tender, glutinous, melting texture, its healthfulness, and its snow-white color, delicate flavor, and subtle aroma. Preparation of Lion’s Head follows these steps:

Ingredients: Select pork with an ideal balance of fat and lean, add chopped scallion and ginger, eggs, oyster sauce, light soy sauce, rice wine, white pepper, salt, and chicken bouillon.

Mix the filling: Blend pork and seasonings thoroughly, preferably kneading by hand for a springy texture.

Shape the meatballs: Wet your hands and spoon, scoop a portion of the filling and roll into a ball in your palm.

Fry the meatballs: Place the formed meatballs into hot oil and fry until both sides are golden brown; remove and set aside.

Prepare the sauce: In a clean pan, add a little oil, sauté scallion, ginger, star anise, and cassia bark until fragrant, pour in hot water, add both light and dark soy sauce for color, rock sugar, salt, and then add the fried meatballs.

Steam: Wrap the meatballs in plastic wrap and steam over high heat for twenty minutes, adjusting the time as needed depending on their size.

Lion’s Head is not only delicious but also highly nutritious, suitable for enjoyment in all seasons.

With the golden wine gleaming in the crystal cup, the magistrate praised the table laden with Huaiyang delicacies.

“Excellent, excellent!” he exclaimed as he ate, “They say the purest flavor on earth is contentment, but here, this Lion’s Head is truly the finest in Shanyang! Bring me brush and ink—I must compose a poem.”

“Waiter, quickly fetch—” the secretary urged, knowing well his master’s penchant for verse.

The magistrate savored the authentic Lion’s Head, relished the array of gourmet dishes, and sipped the exquisite “Ancient Town Supreme Yellow,” a local rice wine as precious as nectar. Having served the magistrate for many years, the secretary knew his master’s tastes almost as well as his own.

The bottle of fine yellow wine on the table was a special brew of the ancient town of Hexia, crafted from the local specialty, Huai’an glutinous rice, using a particular fermentation process. It was said that this yellow wine possessed a unique flavor and quality, beloved by both locals and traveling merchants alike.

What will happen next? To find out, stay tuned for the following chapter.