Chapter Three: Qingyu Tavern’s Huaiyang Delicacies, The Hidden Mysteries of Hexia Ancient Town

“Everyone will be rewarded.” Master Wu cheerfully distributed red envelopes to the crowd, his temperament ever optimistic and open-hearted, living by the philosophy that joy is a constant companion.

“My lady, you have suffered,” Master Wu said as he entered the room, watching his frail wife with deep emotion. He gently took her hand in his.

“My lord, please name our child,” she replied softly.

“My dear, I have long considered this. His given name shall be Cheng’en, with the courtesy name Ruzhong. I hope he will study and become an official—honoring the emperor’s grace above, bringing benefit to the common people below, and becoming a loyal minister remembered in history.”

“Very good, Cheng’en—my beloved Cheng’en—remember your father’s teachings and study diligently,” Madam Wu said to the infant.

As they spoke, a servant rushed in, announcing, “Master, Master, the magistrate has arrived!”

“Quick, invite him in.”

In the first year of the Zhengde reign (1506), Wu Cheng’en was born in the ancient town of He Xia, Dazhitong Alley, Huai’an. To the north of He Xia lay the Huai River, to the south the Grand Canal—nestled between two rivers, this was a merchant hub blessed by nature, where traders from all over gathered in Huai’an. To the west of Wu Cheng’en’s home was Dazhitong Alley, to the east, Dingtie Alley and Fenzhang Alley; northward lay Guoyi Street.

Meanwhile, the county magistrate of Shanyang County, Huai’an Prefecture, made his way straight to the western ancient town of He Xia, drawn by a surge of purple clouds billowing eastward. Following the auspicious sign to the gate of the Wu residence, he found it vanished overhead.

Baffled, the magistrate wondered if a star of literary genius might be born in the Wu household. As he pondered, an infant’s cry rose from within, heightening his curiosity.

Master Wu, beaming with delight, hurried out to welcome him. “Your Excellency honors my humble abode. You bring light to this household!”

“Was there an addition to the family at Wu’s residence today?” the magistrate asked directly.

“Ah, Your Excellency, you are truly prophetic! Indeed, our family has just welcomed a son.”

“How auspicious!” The magistrate nodded, then added, “The Star of Literature descends to the mortal realm—indeed, such a star is born.”

“What Star of Literature, Your Excellency? Surely you jest?” Master Wu asked, both flattered and surprised.

“What is the child’s name?” the magistrate inquired.

“Wu Cheng’en,” Master Wu replied truthfully.

“Cheng’en—excellent! The boundless imperial grace, Cheng’en; this is a fine name.”

The magistrate did not linger. Rising, he departed the Wu residence, unmoved by Master Wu Rui’s earnest attempts to detain him.

“Your Excellency, you honor us by coming to my home. It’s nearly midday—I should offer you the hospitality of my household,” Master Wu insisted.

“My deepest apologies, but official duties await. Thank you for your kindness,” the magistrate replied decisively, taking his leave in haste.

At that moment, He Xia Street grew livelier, especially around the taverns and restaurants. The magistrate made his way south along Lake Mouth Avenue. In front of the “Qingyu Huaiyang Restaurant,” traffic bustled and guests came in an endless stream. A banner at the entrance proudly proclaimed genuine Huaiyang cuisine, prepared by a chef of imperial lineage.

“Well, what a boast!” the magistrate muttered, somewhat skeptical. “Today I’ll dine here and judge the true flavor of Huaiyang dishes for myself.”

He knew that He Xia Ancient Town, located in the northwest of Huai’an’s old city, had a history of over two thousand years. It was once a vital transport checkpoint for grain and a salt trading hub, an essential stretch of the Grand Canal’s cultural tapestry.

With boats from the south and horses from the north, Shanyang County sat at the strategic throat of the Grand Canal’s north-south route. The Ming dynasty had always valued canal transport, and for centuries merchants from both the north and south not only brought exquisite silks and rice from the affluent Jiangnan region to the capital, but this enduring waterway also accelerated the blending of northern and southern cuisines.

Noticing the restaurant’s wall, the magistrate found an insightful discussion on the regional culinary traditions of north and south, which he read with great interest.

Chinese cuisine is divided into four major schools: Shandong, Sichuan, Guangdong, and Huaiyang. Each school, through long evolution in ingredient selection, cutting, and cooking techniques, has developed distinct local flavors, recognized as pillars of Chinese culinary culture.

These regional cuisines arose from differences in climate, geography, history, local produce, and dining customs, forming unique systems of techniques and flavors through historical evolution, and are acknowledged across China.

“Well said, but I still favor our Huaiyang cuisine above all,” the magistrate’s advisor remarked as he fanned himself.

The Chinese have always valued and excelled at cooking. As early as the Spring and Autumn period, regional differences in flavor were already evident. By the Tang and Song dynasties, the cuisines of the north and south had each formed their own systems. People from various regions, employing techniques such as stir-frying, braising, pan-frying, boiling, steaming, roasting, and cold mixing, created their own distinctive flavors.

“His Excellency the Magistrate has arrived—please, upstairs!” Upon hearing the news, the restaurant owner dashed down to greet him.

“Master Song, business is thriving, I see,” the magistrate responded at once. “Today, I wish to sample the craft of your imperial chef.”

“If Your Excellency is not satisfied, there will be no charge!”

“If I am, I shall spread the word, and you should not charge me either.”

“It’s a deal!”

Huaiyang cuisine is one of the traditional eight schools of Chinese cooking. “Yang” refers to Yangzhou and its surrounding area along the Yangtze, while “Huai” refers to the Huai’an region by the Huai River.

The Huaiyang cuisine system centers on the regions of Yangzhou and Huai’an, having formed in these locales.

Huaiyang cuisine traces its origins to the Spring and Autumn period, flourished in the Sui and Tang dynasties, and has long been renowned as “the finest flavor in the southeast, the most exquisite under heaven.” It is known for its rigorous choice of ingredients, techniques adapted to the material, meticulous preparation, and elegant style. It seeks to preserve the original taste, emphasizing freshness and balance.

“Drunken crab should be eaten in season; wind-dried chicken and shad are best before the lantern festival; hairtail before Qingming; sturgeon before the Dragon Boat Festival”—such rules ensure that the ingredients arrive at their prime, allowing anyone to savor the wonders of Huaiyang cuisine at any time.

“Father, I’m back!” At the gate of the Shen residence on Zhu Alley, a boy of about thirteen or fourteen bounded in with lively steps. The youth was none other than the young master of the Shen family.

“Master, young master has returned!”

The magistrate, gazing at a section of poetry displayed on the third floor, recited with delight the words of the great Tang poet Bai Juyi, who had praised Shanyang in glowing terms:

To Governor Guo of Chuzhou
By Bai Juyi of the Tang Dynasty

Southeast of the Huai, the finest prefecture,
Mountains encircle city walls, the moon hangs over the tower.
With golden seals and ribbons at the waist,
Poetry flows from the pen like drifting snow.
Children ride bamboo horses, laughing in the streets,
Drunken, I take friends aboard an immortal’s boat.
Fortune piles up in my home,
No less than Lin Zong or Marquis Xi.

“Marvelous, truly marvelous!” the advisor exclaimed in timely flattery, making the magistrate beam.

Chuzhou, in the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, belonged successively to the states of Wu, Yue, and Chu. After Qin unified China, Huaiyin County was established, and parts of Chuzhou fell under its administration. During the Chu-Han contention, it belonged to Xiang Yu’s Western Chu. In the fifth year of Emperor Gaozu of Han (202 BCE), Han Xin was enfeoffed as King of Chu, and Chuzhou was under his domain.

That same year, Han Xin was demoted to Marquis of Huaiyin, while Liu Chan was made Marquis of Sheyang; Chuzhou was then divided between the two marquisates. In the eleventh year, the Marquisate of Huaiyin was reduced to a county. In the third year of Emperor Hui of the Western Han (192 BCE), the Marquisate of Sheyang became a county. In the sixth year of the Yuanshou era (117 BCE), Linhuai Commandery was established, and Huaiyin and Sheyang became part of it.

What happened next? All shall be revealed in the next chapter.